(23-II-2001) carnival started last night. Everywhere was coming and talking about the Folia and finally arrived. We returned to us the inevitable beating on the bus to Barra. Here, more or less expected: the crowd, the electric trios. The carnival is like the procession, the Fair and Easter together. The girls paid to enter a pijerío cabin, which I did not like. We we found against the Farol da Barra and preferred to leave alone for a while. Opposite, the black waves with white fringe of foam. When it came Timbalada power trio, an avalanche of robbers attacked the crowd, while pushing his hands into his pockets. I was dragged about twenty or thirty meters, which traveled with the body diagonal, giving incessant slapping around the waist. Had no money (he had been careful that nobody custody), but I lent the ritual: for that assault was very theatrical and fun. Then I went and in other cabin and spent the rest of the evening there, drinking beer while watching pass the electric trios. I was talking a while with a guy who introduced me to anyone because he had heard that he was in Santo Amaro da Purificação, the people of Caetano Veloso. Neither the cabins or in the blocos too many blacks. Blacks are on the street, na pipoca , dancing or looking for life. In the blocos only make cordeiros (almost all of whom are black). I was struck by the constant movement of individuals (usually children) collecting soil empty cans of beer were throwing over and in less than a minute and had collected. As scavengers in nature, have a cleansing effect. There were too many policemen, who were in single file, smartly, in groups of seven or eight. Occasionally there was some altercation, and they intervened and subsequently passed to the detainees. I noticed, with special affection in all who lived in the opposite carnival. And in Bahia who passed completely, as I could see from the window of the bus sitting at the doors of their houses, quiet, far from the revelry. If I lived here, would surely be one of them. The sky of Bahia. I've been picked on little by little. Blue expanse of the window, watching from the room or the couch. Now, on the beach, is fully present. This is my first trip alone. I am against Aeroclube. A while ago, lights and transparencies when walking through the sand with the water hitting me on the feet. Dusk. The newspaper as an annotation of moments, at the moment.
I've been thinking about discovery of America by Africans through slavery. The paradise was for them rather than conviction: the place you were expelled from their paradise .
English media over the Internet. New crime of euskonazis. Savater complimentary items by Vargas Llosa and Felix de Azua. It was the first news of Spain in a week. The country is dispensable from here. (Also, twentieth anniversary of the 23-F.)
The sky of Bahia: a kind of heaven of Velázquez painted watercolor, with touches of trim Murillo and Turner at dusk, and extensions of Tintoretto.
(24-II-2001) Happiness unexpectedly last night. I did not want to go back to the bar, but eventually left. We got into the cabin Caranguejo Sergipe bar and we started to see electric trios from the sidelines. Late at night came at the end of the avenue, Gilberto Gil Expresso 2222 the , neon green. It was approaching the crowd, and I waited with suppressed excitement. When passed us, jump to follow. The joy was contagious, with the trio was no bloco no cordeiros isolated, but a crowd free, pipoca , and we join it. Along with Gilberto Gil were Jorge Benjor, Marina Lima and Margareth Menezes. It was a great pleasure to march to the sound of many familiar songs, performed to a more pronounced and accelerated pace than usual. For two hours we, dancing and drinking beer, tour the other night, to Ondina. Some wonder when the end and stop, happily exhausted. Back in the taxi, unused dawn, while I recited: "Back elétrico do Só não vai trio quem já morreu."
Today we decided to rest itself carnival, taking advantage of Dagmar has awakened with a sore throat. Reading times indolent and television on the floor, and afternoon and I have come to this beach is almost always deserted. I sit on the sand and the little yellow crabs come to stare at me. I also watch, motionless, but when I pick up a leg hiding in their holes. Algae in the sea. And in the sky, a rainbow with no hint of rain. I had always taken the rainbow of "Tarde em Itapoã" as a poetic license, but no: it was pure realism Bahia. It is sunny and there you see: "um no ar arc-iris." The amazing thing, however, is the vast horizon: an overview to the bottom of clouds endlessly. And the variety of textures in the vast sky, changing extensions, clouds in the distance that time become clear.
(25-II-2001) The beach, which runs from Stiepan, through the Convention Center, which is what I have frequented these days is that of Armação. I was impressed to read in the guide the reason: in the times of slavery, was full of frames where they kept the black before selling. He also had other names that come to mean the same thing: Chega Senzala and refused. It is a beach where bathing is not recommended, because they get toxic waste (not visible). That is why there is hardly any swimmers, and for that I, instinctively, I have not bathed. What I do is walk the beach and the promenade. Today I did for two hours to the beach from the artists. Soulless coconut water stations for calçadão . And another rainbow no ar.
[Next: trip to Brazil (4) ]
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